
Image: John Michael Cooper
Question:
Hi Kate-
In beginning to look at wedding dresses, I have begun to ask myself what is the triple bottom line approach to purchasing my dress? I, of course, like any other bride, would love to have a dress that fits me well, looks gorgeous on, and is made and purchased responsibly. On one hand, I am willing to pay for the right dress, on the other hand, I question if it is responsible to purchase a wedding dress that costs over $1,000 (or even $500). It is a dress that will most likely be worn for one day. I am starting to feel that if I buy in to that sort of pricing then I am supporting an over inflated wedding industry and supporting capitalism (with its varied and many pitfalls) in general. Because I have many artists in my family, I do like to support designers, but I feel a bit different about supporting a designer who sells many of the same dress rather than one or few of a kind.
Even when I look at buying reused- the prices still make me feel like a disgusting American who, if she bought this dress, would not be considering how that much money could really make a big impact in schools in the US or in supporting poverty related issues internationally. I would love to feel excited and ok about the money I spend on my dress, but the more I look, the more I feel disgusted. Might you have any suggestions that could help make dress shopping fun and exciting again?
Thanks for your help.
Jordan in CA
Answer:
Dear Jordan,
You are not the first bride to feel repulsed at what has become a highly commoditized industry. Just watching three minutes of "Say Yes to The Dress," and seeing row after row of white bejeweled one-time-wear gowns reveals the ugly reality of the "wedding conveyer belt" awaiting us when we get engaged. The experience of over consumption, and the disposable culture surrounding American weddings, is enough to make that special feeling turn into nausea in three seconds flat. So - to answer your last question first, I think the way to feel excited about the process is to take a step back and remember what the goal is - to create a meaningful day that marks the start of your new lives together. Everything, and I mean EVERYTHING after that is completely optional. Joelle Novey, who works for Green America and wore a burgundy gown to her wedding told me that when she and her husband Ethan were planning their wedding they would ask themselves at each turn "Will this bring more joy to the event?" If the answer was no, they skipped it.
Now, I am not saying you have to toss the baby out with the bath water and fly in the face of convention, ritual or expectation - because these are powerful forces and can be very meaningful. I am just saying that you have to try to keep perspective while going through the process, and make decisions that feel right for the two of you.
Turning to the gown, I agree with you that there is something unpalatable about buying a gown that costs more than most cars to wear for 6 hours and pack in a closet. I think it is problematic both financially and environmentally. Most gowns are made overseas in places that have pretty abhorrent labor conditions, are created from petroleum-based fabrics and are bleached in toxic chemicals. After the wedding they are dry cleaned (a.k.a. dipped in more toxic chemicals) and stored in plastic wrap (more petroleum).
So what's a girl to do? You want to - and should - look and feel gorgeous on your wedding day, and getting the right dress is an important part of that. So let me run through some options that I think will address your concerns.

Image: Wai-Ching
You raise a great point about supporting designers, and I certainly think there are gowns out there that really are works of art. Supporting an independent designer (like many of the sellers on Etsy and the designers in The Green Bride Guide shop) makes sense. The gowns these artists make take many hours, and are worth the cost if you value the work. Several designers are now using sustainable fabrics, like organic cotton and peace silk, so you know that even when buying new, the environmental impact of the purchase is much less.
However, you are also correct that most gowns cost more than they are worth (based on their material and craft) and that used dresses, while better, can still cost a pretty penny. The good news is that the cost becomes temporary if you resell (read "recycle") your gown after your wedding. I did this with a pair of Vera Wang shoes for my wedding. I bought them once worn for $50 on eBay and resold them for the same $50 - so all I paid for was the shipping and nothing new had to be created. This kind of recycling allows you to enjoy a luxury item with minimal environmental or financial impact. There are a number of companies renting high end gowns and jewelry now too - a practice that has the same benefits as above.

Image: The Costume Designer
If you feel strongly, as I did, that the money you spend should be supporting a worthy cause, consider buying a gown from Brides Against Breast Cancer's traveling trunk show, or from a store like the Bridal Garden in NY that supports inner city education. Even if you buy a new gown, you can donate it to one of these shops/causes after your event and know those dollars are making a difference. On this note, I also suggest you think about your wedding's overall impact, and consider setting up a charity registry, or giving donations in lieu of favors. There are many ways to have your wedding give back. Your allocated dress funds do not have to be the place to skimp if you want to splurge. Just remember that every choice makes a difference, so feel good about the things you are able to do.
Hope this helps!